Journal
June 2026 · 9 min
The first thing Ladakh takes from you is your sense of scale. A ridge that looks like an hour's walk is four hours away. A village that appears to sit at the foot of the mountain i…
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May 2026 · 7 min
Kerala does not feel like the rest of India, and it will tell you so within an hour of arrival. The literacy, the churches next to temples next to mosques, the arguing over politic…
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March 2026 · 8 min
Most travellers give Delhi a night and an airport transfer. This is a mistake of pacing, not of taste. Delhi is difficult on day one and generous on day three, and almost nobody st…
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February 2026 · 6 min
Jaipur was designed in 1727 by a twenty-something ruler who was better at mathematics than warfare. Jai Singh II laid the city out on a grid of nine blocks, aligned to the compass,…
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July 2026 · 8 min
There is a particular kind of vertigo that hits you on the ghats around 5 a.m., before the sun has decided whether it's coming up or not. It isn't the crowd, though there is one. I…
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August 2026 · 9 min
There is a particular strangeness to Agra. Most cities grow around a river, a fort, a market, a god. Agra grew around a tomb. Everything here — the traffic, the marble workshops, t…
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August 2026 · 8 min
There is a specific kind of silence that falls over a jeep in Ranthambore right before someone spots a tiger — not the silence of nothing happening, but of everyone realising, at o…
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August 2026 · 9 min
There is a particular moment on the drive up from Mettupalayam when the plains simply give up. The heat that has been pressing against the windows for hours thins out, the road beg…
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August 2026 · 8 min
There is a particular kind of light that falls on Srinagar in the early morning — grey-gold, filtered through poplar leaves, sitting low on the water so that Dal Lake looks less li…
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